Thank the technological gods for air conditioning. I bow down before your all mighty, powerful, life changing air blowing. It was the only thing that kept us asleep. I resolve to stop that little grandfather clock from striking if it is the last thing I do. Aside from becoming a mosquito killing machine, of course.
We are greeted by a stifling hot morning. But the sun is out, the sky is blue, and we have decided to get know Old San Juan. The city within the city is very simple to get around in. You walk. It is tiny and very accessible and if you get tired, there is a free tourist tram that does a loop. You just hop on and hop off as needed. But we are fresh, eager travelers! No tourist tram for us.
We start with the Paseo de la Princessa. This broad, tree and lamp-lined boulevard was built in the mid-nineteenth century. It is a great pedestrian strolling area, with flowers, a fountain, and great views of the old city wall (La Muralla) and the water. We meet our first Puerto Rican feral cat. Who isn't so feral after all. He gracefully accepts our attention. Later we see a sign saying to not feed the cats, as they are taken of. "Save el gato!"
The Puerta de San Juan is the fortified entrance in La Murella, dates from 1520 and still has the massive wooden gates. We passed through the city gate to find Plazuela de la Rogativa. It is a contemporary statue commemorating a Puerto Rican legend. The story says that in 1797, the English were attacking the city. It was a long stand off, with both the English and the Spanish tiring during the siege. The people of San Juan banded together, and their bishop led a processional along the city walls at night. The people brought torches to light their way. Out on the water, the English thought the Spanish had received reinforcements, so they turned back. Thus, the faith of the people of Puerto Rico saved the city. The sculpture itself is striking.
Near the statue is the Cathedral de San Juan Bautista. It is maybe best known for containing the mausoleum of Ponce de Leon. Juan Ponce de Leon (just in case you don't immediately recall your elementary school conquistador history lessons) led the first European exploration of Florida, and was obsessed with finding the mythical Fountain of Youth. He also traveled with Christopher Columbus on his second voyage to the New World, and became the first European Governor of Puerto Rico. He also introduced a form of slavery and small pox to the native people here, the Tainos. By 1548, there were an estimated 500 Tainos in existence in the Caribbean. They were essentially wiped off the planet by the Europeans through forced labor, disease and, as one book put it, "sheer despair."
We had a delicious lunch in El Convento. A former convent turned hotel and restaurant. A pitcher of sangria, and a charming waiter who told us that in the Caribbean, all food is fat and calorie free and if your clothes get tighter, it is just the heat, and nothing to worry about. We celebrated with gazpacho, seafood ceviche, a Cuban sandwich and did I mention the sangria?
From there it was a short, very hot walk to the Plaza del Quinto Centenario. A lovely square with a fountain that kids were playing in, while other children were getting ready to fly kites on the grassy headland that leads to the fort, Castillo San Felipe del Morro, or El Morro. The grassy area was full of families and school children, all out enjoying the sun and the wind. The wind! It was perfect kite-flying weather.
San Juan Bay's deep harbor was protected by El Morro. It is easy to imagine those Old World European ships finding this first decent harbor after months at sea. Well, if you were Spanish, it would be a safe harbor. If you weren't - it was a potential death zone. The views from the place (even the bathrooms) was spectacular.
We had a delicious lunch in El Convento. A former convent turned hotel and restaurant. A pitcher of sangria, and a charming waiter who told us that in the Caribbean, all food is fat and calorie free and if your clothes get tighter, it is just the heat, and nothing to worry about. We celebrated with gazpacho, seafood ceviche, a Cuban sandwich and did I mention the sangria?
From there it was a short, very hot walk to the Plaza del Quinto Centenario. A lovely square with a fountain that kids were playing in, while other children were getting ready to fly kites on the grassy headland that leads to the fort, Castillo San Felipe del Morro, or El Morro. The grassy area was full of families and school children, all out enjoying the sun and the wind. The wind! It was perfect kite-flying weather.
I can't resist a good cemetery. Any cemetery, actually. The art is moving, the history interesting, and the Cementerio Santa Maria Magdalena de Pazzis has the best view I think I've ever seen. If I was looking for a final resting place, this might be the spot. It dates back to the early 1800's and has been popular ever since. I think the panoramic views of the Atlantic might have a little something to do with that. The cemetery is on a sliver of land between the old walls of the fort and the ocean.
After that long, hot walk, it was time to drink. We found a charming little tapas / pizza place (and yes, those two things can comfortably co-exist) and had a beer and an AC immersion. Once we caught our breath, we wandered a bit more.
K did some research and found a restaurant near us that got very good mofungo ratings. We went to Punto de Vista and hunkered down for some serious eating. To coin a wonderful British phrase, we tucked in for our mofungo and mojitos. Mofungo comes in various guises, but in general, green plantains are mashed, mixed with garlic, olive oil and salt, then fried in a pan. Then it is stuffed with chicken, beef, pork or shrimp. It is an amazing thing to have in your mouth. We left dinner and walked by a cigar shop. I spotted the cigar presses in the shop and wanted to get back there and take some pictures. But I got this one instead. The owner talked to us about the cigars and we bought a few. Then I asked him to hold these up - and he looks like an ad for Puerto Rico. I loved it.
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