As we head out of Shiraz the rain starts. Jackets and umbrellas come out - unless you failed to bring an umbrella. Guess who forgot her umbrella? A headscarf can do a lot of things if called upon, but it does not exactly keep the rain out.
Hashmet is tasked with running to the store when we arrive and brining back some umbrellas. Only 30,000 tumans, or 300,000 rials. Bills are printed in rials and have pictures of famous Iranian sites and of course, Ayatollah Khomeini. We refer to these by their color: "Wait, do I need a green Khomeini?" Most prices are quoted in tumans, so to figure out how many rials that is, you remove a zero. So that 500,000 rial bill is also 50,000 tumans. It isn't confusing at all. Nope, not one bit.
I trade Hashmet my original beige umbrella, for a purple tulip one. After all, a girl still wants to look good traipsing around Persepolis in the rain.
The long walk up to Persepolis itself is dramatic and impressive. The wind starts to kick up as we dodge puddles - on the up side, there aren't many tourists here today. We pretty much have the place to ourselves.
Persepolis is an archaeological extravaganza. Darius the Great started building it in 515 BCE, but it was still under construction in early 330 BCE when Alexander the Great came blazing through. We modestly entered the complex by ascending the Great Staircase (now covered with wood steps to preserve the original stone).
As we entered the site, the wind really kicked up. Lesser, non-Iranian brand umbrellas (aptly named "Tank" brand) turned inside out, headscarves were blown off, and we all huddled against the stone columns for cover. James was thoroughly enjoying himself, saying that the weather was adding an appropriate atmosphere to the whole endeavor.
Persepolis was probably the ceremonial capital of the Achaemenian Empire, the evidence being all the elaborate carvings portraying various civilizations and races bringing tribute and gifts.
There is one very moving and dramatic relief. It is one of many processions bearing gifts, but the details is so clear that one can actually see the lioness turning back and snarling at the men carrying her cubs. Her teeth are chiseled and her face is full of fury. Her two little cubs cry back at her.
The cypress tree plays heavily into Iranian culture. They are everywhere and we had just seen the oldest living cyprus tree in Abarkooh. This tree lives on in the Iranian psyche. The image of the tree bending and swaying in the wind is used by Persian poets to described great beauties.
The legend says that the prophet Zoroaster planted two Cypress trees, and they both grew to enormous heights. After the Arabs invaded Persia, the Arabic Caliph ordered that one of the trees be brought to him so he could witness the beauty and grandeur of it. Dedicated Zoroastrians begged for the tree's life, but to no avail. When the tree hit the ground, there were shock waves through the earth and people could hear the birds who had lived in it crying, mourning their loss.
I couldn't help but remember my last trip to Persepolis. It was full of blazing sun and lots of fun conversation. I swear that one of these times I go to Persepolis, I will be paying full attention to the guide's explanations.
After lunch it was on to one of my favorite sites. Give me something carved into the side of a rock mountain any time. These particular carvings are damn impressive. They are four Achaemenian tombs, thought to be Darius the Great, Xerxes (which James had an amusing and informative riff about how we got "Xerxes" from the guy's real name), Artaxerxes and Darius II.
Hashmet is tasked with running to the store when we arrive and brining back some umbrellas. Only 30,000 tumans, or 300,000 rials. Bills are printed in rials and have pictures of famous Iranian sites and of course, Ayatollah Khomeini. We refer to these by their color: "Wait, do I need a green Khomeini?" Most prices are quoted in tumans, so to figure out how many rials that is, you remove a zero. So that 500,000 rial bill is also 50,000 tumans. It isn't confusing at all. Nope, not one bit.
I trade Hashmet my original beige umbrella, for a purple tulip one. After all, a girl still wants to look good traipsing around Persepolis in the rain.
The long walk up to Persepolis itself is dramatic and impressive. The wind starts to kick up as we dodge puddles - on the up side, there aren't many tourists here today. We pretty much have the place to ourselves.
Persepolis is an archaeological extravaganza. Darius the Great started building it in 515 BCE, but it was still under construction in early 330 BCE when Alexander the Great came blazing through. We modestly entered the complex by ascending the Great Staircase (now covered with wood steps to preserve the original stone).
As we entered the site, the wind really kicked up. Lesser, non-Iranian brand umbrellas (aptly named "Tank" brand) turned inside out, headscarves were blown off, and we all huddled against the stone columns for cover. James was thoroughly enjoying himself, saying that the weather was adding an appropriate atmosphere to the whole endeavor.
Persepolis was probably the ceremonial capital of the Achaemenian Empire, the evidence being all the elaborate carvings portraying various civilizations and races bringing tribute and gifts.
There is one very moving and dramatic relief. It is one of many processions bearing gifts, but the details is so clear that one can actually see the lioness turning back and snarling at the men carrying her cubs. Her teeth are chiseled and her face is full of fury. Her two little cubs cry back at her.
The cypress tree plays heavily into Iranian culture. They are everywhere and we had just seen the oldest living cyprus tree in Abarkooh. This tree lives on in the Iranian psyche. The image of the tree bending and swaying in the wind is used by Persian poets to described great beauties.
The legend says that the prophet Zoroaster planted two Cypress trees, and they both grew to enormous heights. After the Arabs invaded Persia, the Arabic Caliph ordered that one of the trees be brought to him so he could witness the beauty and grandeur of it. Dedicated Zoroastrians begged for the tree's life, but to no avail. When the tree hit the ground, there were shock waves through the earth and people could hear the birds who had lived in it crying, mourning their loss.
I couldn't help but remember my last trip to Persepolis. It was full of blazing sun and lots of fun conversation. I swear that one of these times I go to Persepolis, I will be paying full attention to the guide's explanations.
After lunch it was on to one of my favorite sites. Give me something carved into the side of a rock mountain any time. These particular carvings are damn impressive. They are four Achaemenian tombs, thought to be Darius the Great, Xerxes (which James had an amusing and informative riff about how we got "Xerxes" from the guy's real name), Artaxerxes and Darius II.
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