Day #10 Thursday, May 7, 2015 - Isfahan City Tour
Outside the mosque, there are treats and shopping to be had.
In about 1603, the shah resettled about 100,000 Armenians from the Caucasus to Persia. Armenians were pulled between Persia and the Ottomans and the shah wanted to keep their silk trading skills for himself. In exchange, they were granted the freedom to worship as they wished. So in the middle of Isfahan, there is the Armenian quarter, called Jolfa or more appropriately, New Jolfa. Currently, the Armenian population hovers around 7,000. The square contains the All Savior's (or Vank) Cathedral, a Museum and some graves.
2015 is the centennial of the Armenian Genocide - there were many signs and memorials to acknowledge that - including a lot of art from the children of the area.
Afterwards, we visited Leo cafe - the same cafe as last time, and wandered through the neighborhood.
Later in the day, we visited Esfahan's Maydan-e Imam, a giant public square (three times the size of St. Mark's Square in Venice) ringed with mosques and monuments. The interior of the square houses an enormous market.
Today I've been contemplating the nature of experience. I had the best time in Iran when I came last time. This place is still special, but I know that it was the people who made it so important to me. It was Jim, Abdi, Julie and Joan. It was a moment in my life when I most needed to meet these people. But I'm not in that place anymore. I've traveled, seen new things since then. I've changed most of the rest of my life. I'm no longer married, I have a challenging new job, and I'm coming out of the end of four painful years. I'm probably more "me" than I've ever been. Isfahan won't be easy, but it is also time to get through it.
The Masjed-e Jame has parts that date back to the 10th century. The unassuming entrance hides beauty and grace and hidden pockets of wonderfulness inside.
This is the oldest part of the mosque, when in the 10th century, a small mosque was first built over the remains of a fire temple.
The dome, with 10th century plasterwork remains intact.
As with most mosques, there are small details that reward those who look. Intricate carvings, tile work and symmetrical designs are everywhere.
The mirab is carved plaster from 1310.
Outside the mosque, there are treats and shopping to be had.
In about 1603, the shah resettled about 100,000 Armenians from the Caucasus to Persia. Armenians were pulled between Persia and the Ottomans and the shah wanted to keep their silk trading skills for himself. In exchange, they were granted the freedom to worship as they wished. So in the middle of Isfahan, there is the Armenian quarter, called Jolfa or more appropriately, New Jolfa. Currently, the Armenian population hovers around 7,000. The square contains the All Savior's (or Vank) Cathedral, a Museum and some graves.
The outside of the Cathedral might not look like much, but it dates from 1650-63, and the inside is nothing short of spectacular.
2015 is the centennial of the Armenian Genocide - there were many signs and memorials to acknowledge that - including a lot of art from the children of the area.
Afterwards, we visited Leo cafe - the same cafe as last time, and wandered through the neighborhood.
Later in the day, we visited Esfahan's Maydan-e Imam, a giant public square (three times the size of St. Mark's Square in Venice) ringed with mosques and monuments. The interior of the square houses an enormous market.
Strolling through the square in the evening is a special experience. The monuments are floodlit, giving one a whole different perspective of the square. People are out playing soccer and picnicking with their families. It has a festive air that is contagious.
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