Today we would normally be seeing the museums with the rest of the group...but traveling with J has perks. He had been in contact with a businesswoman in Tehran, Farah, who runs a chain of bookstores. She was very gracious and invited J and I on a day of touring her stores and talking shop. It was an amazing chance to see something different and meet the people who do what we do.
Farah and I first met in the lobby of the hotel. She was in her hijab, on her mobile phone, as I sat in the lobby. She introduced herself to me, J joined us and we were off. We jumped into the back of the tiny car and the driver took off. Driving in Tehran is not for the faint of heart, and requires steady nerves from all the occupants of the vehicle.
We toured the lovely bookstores - full of colorful displays, well-behaved children and a staff that practically stood at attention when Farah walked into the place, all smiles and impeccably dressed.
We couldn't express too much interest in anything in her shops - it all ended up in our SWAG bags. She had gifts for us at every stop, and was incredibly gracious with her time. A very accomplished and admirable woman - we joked that she was the Godmother of the book world here when we saw the size of her desk and office.
Farah treated us to an incredible lunch in a posh part of town - high above Tehran. She ordered a little (a lot) of different things for us to try.
The Tehran Book Festival was also going on at the same time, so Farah took us to her company's booth and J got to compare notes with her buyers. Afterwards, as a final surprise, Farah took us to her son's coffeeshop for yet more coffee and desserts. It was such a fun and unusual way to spend a day in Tehran, and I will always be grateful to Farah for her graciousness and hospitality.
Farah and I first met in the lobby of the hotel. She was in her hijab, on her mobile phone, as I sat in the lobby. She introduced herself to me, J joined us and we were off. We jumped into the back of the tiny car and the driver took off. Driving in Tehran is not for the faint of heart, and requires steady nerves from all the occupants of the vehicle.
We toured the lovely bookstores - full of colorful displays, well-behaved children and a staff that practically stood at attention when Farah walked into the place, all smiles and impeccably dressed.
While we were at the first shop, Farah asked if we like some tea or coffee. We sat down in the in-store cafe and she ordered and endless feast of refreshing cucumber juice, iced coffees, turkish coffee and enough cake and dessert to sustain us for days. This turned out to just be the warm-up for the full sugar load to come.
We couldn't express too much interest in anything in her shops - it all ended up in our SWAG bags. She had gifts for us at every stop, and was incredibly gracious with her time. A very accomplished and admirable woman - we joked that she was the Godmother of the book world here when we saw the size of her desk and office.
Farah treated us to an incredible lunch in a posh part of town - high above Tehran. She ordered a little (a lot) of different things for us to try.
The Tehran Book Festival was also going on at the same time, so Farah took us to her company's booth and J got to compare notes with her buyers. Afterwards, as a final surprise, Farah took us to her son's coffeeshop for yet more coffee and desserts. It was such a fun and unusual way to spend a day in Tehran, and I will always be grateful to Farah for her graciousness and hospitality.
J and I got back to the hotel just in time to celebrate Jo-Ann's birthday with the group. We swept in as everyone was finishing dinner, and both J and I felt like we were humming. We went upstairs to throw our things in our rooms and at one point in the elevator I turned to J:
Me: "I can't stop laughing, I think I'm on a major sugar high."
J: "I know, I feel like we've out been doing drugs together or something!"
Me: "Well, that would be a story - but seriously, what the heck was in that coffee?!"
The perfect way to end this trip to Iran. Amongst friends, and having closed a chapter on the past four years. It was with relief and sadness that I said goodbye to Iran for the second time.
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