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“When good Americans die, they go to Paris.” Paris, September 25, 2015

“When good Americans die, they go to Paris.” - Oscar Wilde

There must be a technical term for my condition. I can't keep calling myself an Arriving and Leaving Narcoleptic. Can I anagram it?

Addressing my seat companion: "I'm sorry, but I have a raging case of ALN."
Seat companion: "Really? What's that?"
Me: "Arriving and Leaving Narcolepsy."
SC: "And what, exactly, is that?"
Me: "It means that as this plane starts to taxi for take off, I'll suddenly pass out and probably start snoring. The same thing will happen as we land. I'm apologizing in advance in case my head lolls onto your shoulder, or I drool a bit. Other than that though, I'll be shockingly wide awake!"
SC (looking around for another seat): "Ummmm....."

Now, there are worse problems to have. I could be a nervous flyer, I could smoke, I could be flying with a cat. But this whole comatose upon take off and landing thing is getting a bit weird.

Still, no matter what the situation is with my ALN, it is still best to arrive in Europe in the morning. The trick after that is to not nap. No matter what, dump the bags and make for the streets...and don't start drinking until you are ready to sleep it off. 

I had told T that I would meet her at her gate - and it only upon arrival that I realized that might be an impossible feat. First of all, I was arriving at Terminal 3, and she was coming in at Terminal 1. Second, I wasn't able to text, and I didn't think she could either. But I was assured that there was only one exit to the flight arriving at Terminal 1, so I parked myself at the exit and waited. Eventually T came out, saw me, and said, "Oh thank god!"

It was her first trip overseas and is there any place better to have a first time than in Paris? We hopped onto the RER B and took the train almost straight to our hotel - the Hotel Notre Dame. A quirkily decorated hotel practically across the street from Notre Dame. Good sized rooms, comfortable beds, and an unbeatable view were all we needed.



We started, as any good tourist should, with an orientation walk through our temporary neighborhood...and what a neighborhood it was! I realized as we walked, that I've become someone who feels quite comfortable in Paris. This is my fourth time and each time has been a shockingly different experience. But I like that feeling that I can arrive in Paris and remember where things are, down to a reliable candy store.












Last time I was in Paris, I missed a visit to the Cluny. This time, I wasn't going to miss the Lady and the Unicorn. I love the Cluny - the building itself, and all the interesting artifacts inside it. But the Lady is the true Centerpiece. It is a tapestry series, with many potential allegorical meanings. They date from the late fifteenth century and are truly spectacular. 




Then was off to visit the magnificent Sainte-Chapelle. Even on an overcast day, the glass glows and as you emerge from the small, tight spiral staircase, you can't help but have your breath taken away. 


Built by Louis IX in 1242-48, it was to house the crown of thorns - yes, that crown of thorns and other holy relics. Sadly, it was damaged in the French Revolution and was used as a storehouse for flour. But it has obviously been fully restored, and two thirds of the glass is original...which is stunning when you think about all it has survived.



Then we made a dash for the Louvre. In my opinion, each visit to Paris requires that I stop and say hello to Mona. 





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